More grass, more beef

The droughts of the past couple of years had a big impact on forage, boosting the weed population. But soil fertility also plays a huge role in pasture weed populations.

Ultimately, growing more grass is directly related to both elimination of weeds and taking better care of desirable pasture species. Identifying what weeds you have can be difficult. The University of Missouri has a good website to assist you. Check out www.weedid.missouri.edu. The site has a comprehensive list of weeds and photos you can use to identify them. Be sure that the species you want to kill is on the label of the product you plan to use.

For pasture weed control, timing is important. Generally speaking, you want to go after annual weeds early in their life cycle. Summer annuals can be targeted after emergence, late May through July. Winter annuals can be effectively controlled in late November through mid-December. Perennials are best targeted after they have full leaf emergence from about June to September.

I believe in using the maximum labeled rates for good weed control. At the same time, I don’t subscribe to the theory that “if a little is good, a lot is better.” Using too much product can result in a solution that burns the leaves off of weeds before the plant can absorb the herbicide. Using the maximum rate, and no more, gives you the best chance of success.

Choosing the right product can be a daunting task. There are several newer range and pasture herbicides on the market. Your local MFA store has people that can assist you in this process. 

It is important to avoid mowing too soon after a herbicide treatment. When killing broadleaf weeds allow two to four weeks for the herbicide to reach the root zone prior to mowing. Brush should not be cut for six months to achieve full benefit of the herbicide. For good control of brush, targeted plants should be allowed to grow for one or two growing seasons before you spray. This allows enough leaf surface area (basically leaves act as a funnel) to capture a sufficient dose of herbicide to kill the brush.

Don’t skimp on surfactant. Use of a high-quality surfactant makes the difference between success and failure. A water droplet without surfactant is almost perfectly round and does not make a lot of contact with the leaf. Herbicide can only move into the plant where it is wet, for as long as it’s wet. Adding surfactant make the water droplet “squat” or spread out on the leaf surface, makes your herbicide application more effective. Ask your local MFA for advice on which surfactant to use.

With the rebound in moisture we’ve seen, an investment in fertility and weed control can really give your pastures a boost. Feel free to contact me with any questions you might have: dmoore@mfa-inc.com.